I CRACKED OPEN THE CRATE MOTOR'S CRATE FOR NEW YEAR'S DAY.
Happy New Engine Year, everyone. 2020 was a buster for sure but I'll take last night's Times Square ball drop as a sign of hope that the worst is behind us.
I'd rather look ahead to having Ratiki back on the road and running better than ever.
To that end, I was able to pull out the paperwork and read everything.
SOME IMPORTANT NOTES:
- No pre-lubing, tuning, or break-in procedures are required
- No synthetic oil, ever
- All timing is preset
- The engine has been drained and had the oil filter removed for shipping.
- The engine requires five quarts of oil
- 10w-40 mineral-based oil is recommended. NO SYNTHETIC OILS!
- A 180-degree thermostat is recommended
- The engine is tuned to use a PVC valve and its use is recommended
- Flexplate should be mounted with Red Loctite and torqued to 70 ft. lbs.
- The engine reached a peak Torque of 476.8 at 3900 RPM
- The engine reached a horsepower of 429.8 at 5200 RPM
- 3-5K is the recommended oil change interval
- Oil pressure should be 20-25psi at idle
- The engine develops in excess of 400 lb. feet of torque from 2500 RPM through 5,500
- Max RPM is 5800
- Although it will run on regular, 91-octane is suggested
- Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
- Ignition timing: 16 BTDC/ 36BTDC Total
- Spark Plugs: Autolite #3924, 0.035"-0.040" gap
- Do not adjust valves ever without consulting Smeding or the warranty will be voided.
- Main idle speed screw can be adjusted to taste but is already set
- A natural chemical process called electrolysis can cause corrosion to aluminum. A MIX OF DISTILLED WATER water AND ANTIFREEZE and RUNNING ADEQUATE GROUNDS ON BOTH SIDE OF THE ENGINE IS RECOMMENDED
- An aluminum radiator can help prevent corrosion
- Conditional warranty: Three years and unlimited miles.
I won't be happy until my entire engine bay looks this good. And it will.
Passenger side of EFI unit.
Driver side of EFI unit.
A CONFESSION: Although I swore I'd leave the crate unopened until the engine bay is completely detailed, I just couldn't resist opening the crate from Smeding if only to take a better look at the EFI System, and the dyno results.
With the enclosed manila envelope in hand, I then re-wrapped the engine in its thick plastic protective bag and screwed the carate closed again, but not before snapping a couple of pics.
The paperwork stayed outside the crate and I will be kept in my build book after admiring the dyno results.
And they were admirable, IMHO.
Onward!
Comments
Post a Comment